SS26: Rethinking Size and Power in the Industry
September is the marathon of fashion. From New York to London, Milan, Tokyo and Seoul, and now Paris, the global calendar stretches into a full month where the industry becomes the loudest cultural conversation. Each city carries its own energy. New York buzzes with commercial confidence, London thrives on experimentation, Milan champions heritage and craftsmanship, Tokyo and Seoul highlight technology and subculture, while Paris remains the crown jewel of the industry. By the time Paris closes the season, the question is not only about the trends dominating next season but also what the shows reveal about the state of the industry itself. The spotlight is on diversity and bodies and the ongoing importance around representation.
The Runway and the Body
Despite years of dialogue around inclusivity, the September runways show that fashion still struggles to reconcile fantasy with reality. Tokyo and Seoul gave a few forward moments, showcasing a mix of body shapes and silhouettes in a way that felt stringent to the design. New York opened with energy but the approach to size still felt uneven. Some shows celebrated variety while others leaned into token gestures, leaving audiences with the sense that the conversation has not moved as far as promised. London’s younger and boundary pushing scene embraced unfortunately just a small range of models, proving quietly that fashion can thrive without erasing body diversity. Milan, long committed to its sharp tailoring and body-conscious traditions, stayed cautious, with diversity appearing more as a gesture than a shift in standard. In Paris, where heritage houses and couture dominate, grandeur still overshadows inclusivity. The presence of different bodies is often as a quiet subtext rather than a central narrative. Even though the shapes and silhouettes on the runways leaned toward fuller volumes and experimented with different figures, much of it remains an illusion, one created by fabric and form. The collections played with proportion and structure, but the bodies inside often told a single story: very slim and simply a canvas for the clothes to sculpt around.
The Industry at a Crossroads
Fashion has always traded on aspiration and the body has always been its canvas. But the question in 2025 is whether aspiration has to mean exclusion. The rise of new markets, the dominance of social media and the voices of younger audiences have made it harder for the industry to ignore the demand for true representation. While progress is visible, it is not consistent. Too often inclusivity is performed as spectacle for a season rather than embedded into the DNA of brands. What is at stake is not only who gets to walk a runway but who gets to belong in the world of fashion at all. When bodies are limited to a narrow ideal, the message extends beyond the catwalk. It shapes who feels worthy of luxury, who gets to wear the clothes and who is reflected in the culture that fashion creates.
Paris Fashion Week closes the month as always with grandeur and fantasy. Yet beneath the surface, the industry knows change cannot remain ignored. If fashion truly reflects culture, then it must engage with the real spectrum of bodies that exist in that culture. The challenge is to evolve without losing the artistry that defines fashion’s magic. The opportunity is to expand that artistry by designing for bodies of all kinds and celebrating beauty in its full dimension. The September 2025 fashion month showed both promise and hesitation. Progress was visible, yet resistance remained. As the lights went down in Paris, one question lingered: will inclusivity keep being treated as a passing trend, or finally become part of fashion’s foundation?
Looking Forward
This season was filled with new creative directors and debut collections, bringing hope for fresh perspectives and new directions. Beyond the clothes, it was about who these brands want to reach, inspire and include. For now, only a few designers are moving toward real diversity. The hope is that by FW26, inclusivity will be on the runway and be part of the industry’s reality.
